Green Coffee Offerings : Arabia : Yemen


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Given the political instability in the region, we were amazed by the quality of coffee we were able to get from our supplier in 2011. The same is true in 2012. The lots are in transit now, due to arrive in May


About Yemen's Coffee

 
 

Rounded Shape of Shibriqi Mokha
Rounded Shape of Shibriqi Mokha
Shibriqi coffee cherry is smaller than Tufahi, and has a very rounded shape

Checking out the Coffee Cherry
Checking out the Coffee Cherry
We came across a guy resting after picking some coffee (not the guy in the image - that's me!) In Central America you see pickers with huge amounts of cherry, but with such low production in Yemen, with so little coffee in the trees, this was a miniscule bag in comparison.

Technically, Yemen is on the Asian continent (on the Arabian Peninsula) although it is really just a stone's throw from Africa, across the Red Sea and the Gulf of Aden. For coffee reasons, and since there is no other "Arabian" coffee, we put it in the family of tastes that are North African.

Now, what is Mokha? Al Mokha (Al-Mahka) is the port city that Yemeni coffee ships from! It has nothing to do with chocolate. Why is the coffee called Mokha? Because in the coffee trade it was too complicated to name all the little sub-regions where the coffee is actually grown, even though they do produce notably different coffees in terms of the cup. Many of the dry-process Ethiopian coffees will also call themselves Moka: Moka Harar etc. ...I believe to associate themselves with the taste profile they share with Yemens. How the heck do you spell Mokha? Well, it is spelled usually Mocca or Mocha or Moka ...but in fact the most correct spelling is the one you will never see: Al-Mahka, which is the truest to the Arabic spelling. I am trying to use it, but you will see I lapse, or in fact want to indicate also the way I am seeing it spelled on the burlap bag. Lastly, let me say that Yemeni are one of the most distinct and prized coffees in the world, but this is what we call a "wild" or natural cup ...Earthy, complex, pungent ---to some it may be strange and bitter. Either way, do yourself a favor and try it sometime.( You can see by our selection I am a fan of this unusual coffee) ... And don't blame me if you become addicted!

Yemen has a coffee culture like no other place, and perhaps some of what we enjoy in this cup is due to their old style of trade. Exporters do not buy from farms, but through an extesive network of middlemen. Local buyers receive coffee in the pod, the entire dried cherry, and that is stored, usually in underground caverns! The coffee actually exported is usually the oldest of their stocks, not new crop coffee! But this is the way it has been, and is one reason that new Yemen arrivals often have moisture content readings in the 10.5% range, in my experience. Yemeni growers are not hurt by this system with so many middlemen, largely because the coffee land under cultivation is limited, production is fairly low due to high altitude and limited inputs, and the crop is in such high demand. Competition from the Saudis also keeps Yemeni coffee prices very high. We are offering Qishr now too (also spelled Quishir, Keshir, Geshir) - the dried coffee husks used to make traditional hot infused coffee tea, or Yemen Ginger Tea.
 
 
 
I have posted a rather large travelogue from my Yemen trip, November 2007, and links to other articles about Yemen coffee
Coffee Farms:
330,000
Harvest Times:
Main Crop: Octy.-Dec. , 2nd harvest (some areas) in April
Coffee Workers:
1,530,000
Processing;
Grading:
Natural, locally dry-processed arabica;
No regulatory agency, no grading
Shading:
Wild growth, yes: N/A, Coffee grown on terraces
Certified Organic:
None certified: all coffee grown organic by tradition, no chemical inputs.
Major Coffee Growing Regions:

Mattari (from Bani Matar),
Hirazi/Harasi (from Haras), Haimi, Saihi, Ismaili, Sharasi,
Dhamari (from Dhamar),
Rimy (from Raimi or Rayma)

Rank in Production::
10th in Asia
46th in World
Botanical Cultivars:
10 unique local varietals of original Mokha seedstock, brought from Ethiopia
Introduced:
6th Century or earlier: Introduced from Harar region of Ethiopia where coffea arabica grows wild. Yemen was the first site of coffee cultivation outside Ethiopia
Al Hagarah
Al Hagarah
On the way to Haras, Yemen, you pass this especially imposing town, Al Hagarah. By the way, there's always a variety of way to spell things in Yemen. I was given the names of Al Hagrah, Al Hajrah, and Al Hagarah for this town.
I can see coffee now ...
I can see coffee now ...
As we approached Lower Gart I could see that many of the roofs had coffee drying. Indeed, this is the middle of the Yemeni Harvest (October-December) so it makes sense.
 
General Yemen Roasting Tips: These coffees are very high-grown and need to be roasted slightly longer than other arabica coffees. This is a dry-processed natural coffee, and the roast color will be uneven from bean to bean ...but we judge coffee by the "cup quality," not visual appearances: don't be an "eye-cupper". Some Yemeni coffees are very small in screen size, which might cause problems in the Alpenrost. Yemeni coffee really develops its flavors over the first 2 days after roasting, especially the body/mouthfeel. Ideally, try to wait 24-48 hours before brewing. Since this is a hand prepared coffee dried in the sun - watch out for rocks! There can be small stones in the coffee that you need to cull out before roasting and definitely before grinding as these can jam a grinder. (In wet processed coffees the stones fall out in the water channel but in dry processed coffees, small stones can escape detection and make it all the way through to the final bag.) Expect uneven roast colors from Yemeni coffees, just as with the dry-processed Ethiopian coffees. Yemeni coffees pass from 1st crack to 2nd crack rapidly, so be on your toes!

Our Yemeni Offerings:

Please refer to our Reference Page for definitions of terms and cupping numbers used below. Check out the Sweet Maria's Coffee Home Roasting Forum for more conversation about home roasting this and other coffees.


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Yemen Mokha Sharasi
$8.40$15.96$36.54$69.72$129.36
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Sharasi is a coffee from north of the capital city Sana'a, and a region I had never heard of before my travel to Yemen in 2007. But when we cupped the separated regional lots, lots normally blended to for the generic "Sana'ani" coffee, it was clear what Sharasi was contributing to the mix; clean sweet fruited flavors. What arrived here in the container of small-lots that resulted from the November '07 trip was a bit different from what we cupped there, more muted, lower in general tonality. But it kept with the same theme; rustic sweet fruited notes, and quite "clean" in flavor for a Yemeni coffee. Since then we have offered Sharasi each year, as it always cups with a unique character, and is often the highest scoring Yemeni coffee on the cupping table. This year's offering is no exception.

There's an earthy "ruddiness" in the dry aroma with lots of sorghum syrup sweetness, slight winey fruits, overripe banana and red fruit sweetness. The grounds smell of chocolate brownie mix, and like most of our Yemeni coffee's, they also transmit more than a hint of cedar and sandalwood. Baker's chocolate and caramel are prevalent in the wet aroma, culminating in the smell of freshly baked brownies. Dark fruits such as prune, fig, tamarind and dried salted plum permeate on the break. The fruit characteristics found in Sharasi's aroma transfer nicely to the cup. Out of all our Yemeni coffees, Sharasi definitely afforded us the cleanest fruit notes, denoting golden raisin, apricot butter, and peach tea. It produces a spiced profile with sarsaparilla, star anise, and ginseng root throughout. Lighter roasts have a cocoa butter sweetness to them, leaning toward the side of white chocolate. Roasting to Full City+ brought out more dark cocoa, and notes of almond and macadamia nut. Sharasi has a "weightiness" to it, producing a nice body and creamy mouthfeel. This also makes for a great Single Origin (SO) espresso, or the perfect crema-producing component to your espresso blend. On its own, Sharasi tends to be more along the lines of a "classic" espresso profile. Whether cup or SO espresso, like all Yemeni coffee, Sharasi greatly benefits from a few days rest. 48 hours is great but we found 72 hours to be best.





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Coffee cherry in Sharasi.
Country: Yemen
Grade: n/a
Region: Sharasi, Northern District
Mark: Sharasi Mokha, Al Haj
Processing: Dry Process (Natural)
Arrival Date: May 2012 arrival
Appearance: 1.2 d/300gr, 15-16 Screen
Varietal:
Intensity/Prime Attribute: Medium-Bold intensity / Rustic sweetness, fruits, spice
Roast: City+ to FC to FC+. There's a very different cup character between light and dark roasts. Benefits from at least 48 hours rest.
Compare to: Intense, complex and wild cup. Perhaps Sharasi seems milder than other Yemeni coffees, but becomes intense and complex as it cools. SO espresso is fantastic
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Archived Reviews

To view reviews for out of stock coffees, visit our Yemen Coffee Archives.


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