Green Coffee Offerings : South America: Colombia |
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View Our Current Colombian Coffees |
Upcoming Crop CommentsOur small lots from the Second Harvest (the Mitaca), have arrived and they are really cupping well. This is an amazing season for our Tolima coffees, in terms of quality and quantity. Prices have been high because of increased competition and the high value of the Peso in relation to the Dollar. |
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| Colombia is a diverse group of coffee origins, with Northern and Southern regions staggered in the crop cycle. Colombian coffee is highly marketed and widely available in the US. They have been largely successful at equating the name Colombian Coffee with "Good" Coffee. This is half-true. Colombian can be very balanced, with good body, brightness (acidity) and flavor. But much of it is a bit boring, and most of it that you find in Supermarket bins etc. is simply a decent clean cup with almost no aftertaste (if its fresh from the roaster, which is not likely). So, is there good Colombian coffee? Absolutely yes. It just takes work to find it. Good Colombian is rarely sold simply as Supremo or Excelso, a name that designates the size of the beans, the screen size. Colombian coffee that has more "cup character" can be a farm specific coffee, or pooled from particular regions and will have the regional name identifying it. Sometimes a generic Colombian just happens to cup really nice, but that's rare, and it requires cupping each lot to find the special one. In the past, Colombians were all sold based on bean size (Excelso, Supremo) unlike other Central American and South American coffees which are graded mostly on altitude. Grading by screen size doesn't make sense because a larger bean does not mean better cup quality. In fact, the presence of diverse bean sizes can (but not necessarily) result in better cup quality. Since we rate everything by the cup quality and all coffees are judged "blind", bean size is largely irrelevant, and doesn't enter into how I chose the following Colombians from the 30 to 40 samples I cup each year. |
All that is changing in the specialty coffee end of the market; we have come "light years" ahead in the last 5 years, offering micro-regional selections from small-holder coffee producing groups, and abandoning the senseless size-based grading system. We now have access to many more small, farm-specific lots. Part of the current crop quality is this: we can wait for the good coffee, not just go out and buy Colombia when we need it. That's the whole way we operate anyway; we wait for the peak of the harvest. And if you cup a lot of these micro-regional lots, in particular the Tolima, the South Huilas, the Cauca coffees and Narino, there is always a point where all factors converge, and the cup becomes exemplary. I have been to Colombia now many times - check out the travelogue section of the Coffee Library to see the photos from those trips. |
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note on Colombian selections: Coffee
from Colombia comes in all grades to suit different markets:
there are lower grades for commercial and food service applications,
generic medium grades, Specialty grades, and at highest end of
the spectrum there are specific appellations with designated
varietal and farm or micro-region. The later has only become
available in the last two years or so (before that many fine
coffees were pooled with not-so-fine lots to form large exportable
shipments). This means that the marginally Specialty grades,
pooled lots designated only by a general region like Huila, Medellin,
Antioquia, Cauca, etc. no longer represent the best of Colombian
coffee. These lots can be okay, but recent samples have showed
a tendency toward the aqua-pulp rapid milling process. The use
of non-traditional varietals like Variedad Colombian is also
a trend towards higher production detrimental to cup quality.
Our response is to carry the best Colombians we can find, traditional
varietals, farm and micro-regional lots, special selections.
I'll certainly cup the other lots too and if there's something
good we'll get it. But I think you won't see much pooled Colombians
on our list anymore (well, never say never!)... Tom
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Primary Growing Regions of Colombia: These are the regions our samples come from, and from these we chose the ones we feel are best in any given season ... |
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Popayan, Cauca |
Huila, San Augustin |
Antioquia, Medellin |
Quindio, Armenia |
Santander, Bucaramanga |
Magdelena, Sierra Nevada |
Nariņo |
Our Unroasted Colombian Coffee Offerings
Please refer to our Reference Page for definitions of terms and cupping numbers used below. Check out the Sweet Maria's Coffee Home Roasting Forum for more conversation about home roasting this and other coffees.
This is the fifth "edition" from small-farm selections in the Tolima department of Colombia. Tolima is one of my favorite coffee origins in Colombia, and the Tolima microlot offerings we evaluate through our Colombia farm gate program are some of my highest rated. Most of the lots are from Herrera and Rioblanco areas, a remote zone that is fairly difficult to access compared to other coffee areas. Part of the issue is that Tolima was one of the last active FARC areas where the conflict between the government, paramilitary and FARC continued. Sadly is is always the farmers who are held to the land who suffer. Still, we work the through local Cooperative called Asoceas to access their fantastic coffees, and have designated this blend as "Dos Payasos de Tolima" as a riff on the first lot we called Los Pijaos de Tolima. As you might guess, payaso means clown. Not to say there is any nonsense to this lot; it's fantastic! The aromatics here are very complex and sweet. These are coffees that are really nice in the cup, but don't make the high standard for our Tolima farm-specific micro-lots. They are assembled into Dos Payasos, aiming for brightness, balanced by complex deeper-toned flavors.
The dry fragrance has hibiscus hints, almond, red apple and dark grape. Adding the hot water, the fruit has a slight winey aspect, warming spice, fig, grape and raisin. There is a nice panela sugar in the wet aroma, mole chocolate sauce, sweet beef bouillon. In the cup, lighter roasts have nut and golden raisin fruit with apple-like brightness. The finish has a pleasant tart, drying quality, a bit like apple skins. There are spices as well; cinnamon stick, clove. Caramel and spice linger as the cup cools, as well as orange spice tea. The body isn't heavy, but syrupy in mouthfeel to balance out the brighter aspects of the cup. Darker roasts have a nice balance and cool well, with lush chocolate notes and sultana raisin.
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Archived Reviews
To view reviews for out of stock coffees, visit our Colombia Coffee Archives.
2005-2006 | 2004 -2003 | 2001-2002 | Pre-2000 Tom's Sample Cupping Log | Moisture Content Readings This page is authored
by Thompson Owen and Sweet Maria's Coffee, Inc. and is not to be
copied or reproduced without permission
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